LED bars, rock lights, pods, and underglow — wired clean, installed right, and built to survive Houston rain and Hill Country trails.
Tell us about your rig — we'll build you a custom quote
Not every truck needs the same solution. We carry and install every major lighting system type and help you choose the right setup for your driving style, terrain, and budget.
High-output straight and curved LED bars mounted to roof, bumper, or A-pillar. Built to light up everything from muddy ranch roads to open trails — with real lumen output, not marketing numbers.
Flush-mount pods, fog light upgrades, and grille-integrated bars that add serious output without the roofline bulk. Perfect for daily drivers that still need to see past the headlight cone.
RGB lighting for the cabin, footwells, engine bay, and underbody. Full smartphone control, color-shift modes, and music sync — wired clean so there are no loose strips dangling under your dash.
Wheel-well and undercarriage pods that throw light exactly where you need it on the trail. Essential for night wheeling, puddle navigation, and showing off the rig at the Buc-ee's parking lot.
Transparent pricing, no surprises. All installs include wiring to fused, relayed, switched circuits — plus a post-install function check. Parts & labor included in ranges shown.
Pricing varies by vehicle, mounting complexity, and brand. Final quote after free in-shop consult.
Every build is different. Here's a sample of recent lighting installs — each one wired clean, function-checked, and road-tested before delivery.
Roof-mount combo-beam with hidden wiring through the A-pillar trim. Pods switched separately for trail use; rock lights on app control.
Full app-controlled RGB system. Customer wanted orange-and-white mode for tailgating and white-only for trail use — both programmed into presets.
Grille-integrated bar tucked behind the factory opening so it disappears when off. Ditch lights wired to a 4-position rocker for aux power.
Complete RGB package with music-sync. Wiring concealed through the dash, routed to a single relay panel under the rear seat for clean troubleshooting.
Customer brought their own bar; we fabbed custom brackets that match the factory roof line and ran the harness through the headliner for a zero-hole install.
Practical lighting package for a working ranch truck. Bed strips on a dedicated switch, fog upgrade for foggy-morning commutes, rock lights for after-dark cattle checks.
Houston isn't California or Arizona. Our rain, our humidity, and our mix of interstate + ranch + trail driving means off-the-shelf lighting advice doesn't always apply here. Here's what actually matters for trucks driven in this region.
Houston gets over 50 inches of rain a year, and humidity alone will corrode cheap connectors inside of a year. Every harness we install uses sealed Deutsch or DT-series connectors, IP67-rated pods, and dielectric grease on every pin. It's the difference between lights that last a decade and lights that flicker after the first tropical storm.
Weekend wheeling in Hidden Falls, Barnwell Mountain, or River Run calls for real output — not just style. We spec combo-beam LED bars with genuine 20,000+ lumen output (tested, not marketing claims), mounted to survive real hits from branches and rocks. Rock lights get sealed aluminum housings, not plastic knockoffs.
Most of our customers drive their trucks daily. That means street-legal color modes on RGB (amber, white, red only while in motion), properly aimed auxiliary lights that don't blind oncoming traffic, and lights that don't pull enough current to tax the alternator. We wire everything through relays and fuses — no load on your factory switches.
Auxiliary lights above the headlight plane must be covered or switched off on public roads in Texas. We install lens covers on every roof-mounted bar by default, and wire ditch/pillar lights to a dedicated switch so you stay legal on the highway and keep full output off-road. Compliance done right from day one.
There's no one "best" lighting kit — the right answer depends on how you use the truck. Here's how we help customers decide.
Daily-driver commuters benefit most from fog upgrades and ditch pods — quick to install, highway-legal, and huge visibility gain on foggy Houston mornings. Weekend wheelers need roof bars and rock lights. Show trucks lean into RGB and underglow. We ask about your use case first, then spec the build around it.

Raw lumen numbers are only half the story. A 30,000-lumen flood beam floods the road in front of you but does nothing past 100 feet. A 15,000-lumen spot reaches 1,000+ feet but is useless in close-quarters trail work. We pair you with the right beam pattern — usually a combo — for the way you actually drive.
We stock and install Baja Designs, KC HiLiTES, Rigid Industries, Morimoto, Diode Dynamics, and a few value brands for customers on tight budgets. Cheap Amazon bars often look identical but pull half the advertised lumens, fail in rain, and have no warranty support. We'll quote both tiers honestly and let you choose.
80% of the lighting problems we fix at our shop are from someone else's wiring job. No fuse. No relay. Dash switch pulling 20 amps. Bare copper spliced with electrical tape. We wire every install to a fused, relayed, properly gauged circuit — with labeled switches and a schematic you keep. It costs a little more up front, saves a lot of frustration later.
The difference between a good install and a great one is in the details you can't see from outside the truck. Here's what we do on every single job.
Every aux light gets its own relay triggered by a low-current dash switch — not the switch carrying full amperage. Circuits are fused at the battery within 6 inches, matched to the load (typically 10A, 20A, or 30A). Wire gauge is sized for the run length and current draw, using marine-grade tinned copper to resist Houston corrosion.

Harnesses route away from exhaust manifolds, turbochargers, and moving suspension components. We use convoluted tubing through engine bays, bulkhead grommets through firewalls, and factory routing channels wherever possible. A clean install should be invisible — you should never see a wire with the hood down.
Bad grounds are the #1 cause of flicker, color shift, and premature LED failure. Every light gets a dedicated ground to bare metal (not painted), star-washered, and sealed with dielectric. RGB controllers get a star-ground back to the battery negative to prevent voltage drift between channels.
Before you leave, we aim every auxiliary light on a level surface at 25 feet: cutoffs for fog, spread for floods, convergence for spots. Every switch, every mode, every dimmer tested. RGB controllers paired to your phone with presets programmed. You drive away with a schematic in the glove box and a system that just works.


We see the same handful of problems over and over when customers come in to fix someone else's (or their own) install. Here's what to watch for.
Running a 20-amp light bar through a factory switch or a $4 toggle is a fire waiting to happen. We've pulled melted switches out of dashes more times than we can count. Every aux circuit we install has a proper automotive relay with the switch only carrying the trigger signal — a safer, more reliable setup.
Add-a-circuit taps are fine for tire-pressure monitors and dash cams. They are not fine for 30-amp light bars. We've seen burned fuse panels and dead BCMs from taps being used beyond their rating. Aux lighting gets its own battery-side fuse and relay, period.
Texas law requires auxiliary lights mounted above the headlight plane to be covered or off on public roads. Forget this and you'll meet a DPS trooper eventually. We install a lens cover on every roof bar by default, and customers who want full-output highway use get a separate dimmer circuit to stay legal.
Butt connectors with electrical tape, posi-taps, scotch-locks — we cut all of that out and replace it. Every connection gets a heat-shrink adhesive-lined splice or a sealed Deutsch connector. One tropical storm and a cheap splice turns green inside the insulation. You won't see it fail until a month later when the light randomly dies.
We don't just bolt on lights and send you home. Every install follows a 5-step process so the wiring is clean, the aim is right, and every switch works the way you expect.
We review your vehicle, driving style, and lighting goals. Then we recommend the right package, brand tier, and mounting strategy for your specific truck.
Brackets and mounts dry-fit first. Custom fab where needed to match factory lines. No drilling until the fit is confirmed.
Every circuit gets a fused battery-side feed, a properly rated relay, and switched trigger from the dash. Harnesses routed through factory channels and sealed at every pass-through.
Every light aimed on a level pad at 25 feet. RGB controllers paired to your phone, presets programmed, every mode and dimmer function-tested.
Walk-through of every switch and setting. Schematic for the glove box, warranty paperwork, and a follow-up check in 30 days to verify nothing worked loose.
Reviews verified on Google. Names shortened for privacy.
"Had a 50" bar and ditch lights installed on my F-250. The wiring job is cleaner than the factory harnesses — I actually pulled the headliner to check and couldn't even find the wire run. Switches are labeled and everything works perfectly. Worth every penny."
"These guys did a full RGB rock light setup on my Wrangler. App control, music sync, the whole deal. They walked me through every preset before I left and even programmed a 'Texas' mode with white and orange. Insane attention to detail."
"Came in for a fog light upgrade after a bad install from another shop left my bumper wiring melted. They fixed the damage, installed new LED fogs, and rewired everything to a proper relay. Honest, straight-up pricing and no upsell. I'll be back."
Our shop serves drivers from across the Houston metro and beyond. If you're within a reasonable drive, we've probably wired a truck from your zip code.